Ingredient
BENZOPHENONE-3
Name / description
Benzophenone-3; 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Oxybenzone
Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products
FRAGRANCE FUNCTIONAL
Functional ingredient (excipient) of perfume oils and / or flavours
LIGHT STABILIZER
Protecting the cosmetic product from deterioration effects of light
UV ABSORBER
Protects the cosmetic product from damage caused by UV light
UV FILTER
Protects skin or hair from harmful UV radiation
Origin
synthetic
Occurrence in cosmetics
As a UV filter in sunscreens and other cosmetics with UV protection (care products, decorative cosmetics); as a UV absorber for the protection of eg fragrances, colourants and active ingredients in the product and also for the protection of plastic packaging
Occurrence in other products
As a photo initiator in UV hardening applications (such as inks and coatings in the printing industry); in paints and coatings
Background information on use in cosmetics
Benzophenones are organic compounds from the group of ketones and aromatics. Benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4 and benzophenone-5 are approved as UV filters in sunscreens according to the EC Cosmetics Regulation. Benzophenone-3 is a soluble organic UV-BB filter (broadband filter) which protects the skin both against UV-B and also against UV-A radiation. The maximum concentration of benzophenone-3 is 6 %. UV filters minimise the undesired effects of UV radiation on the skin and are, therefore, an important component of sunscreens. By protecting the skin against the dangerous sun radiation, they contribute towards preventing premature light-caused skin ageing and skin cancer. In this connection a distinction is made between soluble organic UV filters and those based on mineral and / or organic pigments. Whereas soluble organic UV filters absorb the UV radiation, transform it into heat and form an invisible protection shield in the upper skin layer, UV filters on the basis of pigments reflect, scatter and absorb the sun radiation already on the skin surface. Organic UV filters absorb the energy of the ultraviolet part of the light in the range from approximately 280 to 400 nm. In this connection the energy of the absorbed photon must correspond to the energy which is necessary to elevate the electron in the molecule of the filter substance from a low to a higher orbit. When the electron falls back to its original orbit, the absorbed energy is either given off as heat or as radiation of a longer wavelength and hence rendered harmless. The organic UV filters are distinguished, amongst others, by the position of the absorption area, the photostability, the solubility and the penetration capacity. Depending on the wave range of the ultraviolet radiation which is absorbed by the UV filter, a distinction is made between UV-A, UV-B and broadband filters. Fragrances or mixtures of fragrances are often referred to in the cosmetics area as "perfuming agents" or "perfume oils" or "parfum oils". On the cosmetic products they are declared with the INCI name "PARFUM". These are undiluted individual substances or their mixtures which originate from natural raw materials or can be produced (semi-) synthetically. They are starting materials for the production of perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne and other perfumed cosmetic products. The average content of fragrances amounts in perfume to 15-30 %, in eau de parfum to 10-14 %, in eau de toilette to 6-9 %, in eau de cologne to 3-5 % as well as in skin creams, shampoos, hair and deodorant sprays to approximately 0.2-1 % and approximately 1-3 in deodorant sticks. The perfume oils include essential oils, resinoids and absolutes. The sources are, amongst others, flowers, leaves and stems, fruits and fruit peels or roots of plants; woods, grasses or herbs, needles, resins and balsams. Moreover, only compounds isolated from natural products such as aldehydes, ketones, esters, alcohols etc. are used (geraniol, citronellal, citral, eugenol, menthol) as well as semi-synthetic (citronellol, geranyl acetate, jonone) and synthetic scents (eg phenylethyl alcohol and linalool) are used. Scents of animal origin such as musk and ambra are only rarely used.
Information on safe use
In accordance with the EU Cosmetics Regulation [Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009], which applies to the entire EU market, UV filters are defined as substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to protect the skin against certain UV radiation by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV radiation. Annex VI of the Regulation defines the substances which may be used in cosmetic products as UV filters. In this so-called positive list of the UV filters maximum concentrations are prescribed for the use of these substances in cosmetic products and, if necessary, additional conditions for use are defined. Prior to their approval in Annex VI, UV filters are examined selectively for their toxicological safety and subjected to comprehensive tests. The manufacturers must prove the health safety in extensive scientific studies. Moreover, the approved filters are re-assessed, if necessary on the basis of new scientific findings and in the event of possible conspicuous findings in market observation and the list is updated accordingly.
Links to scientific assessments
Opinion of the SCCS (2021) on the safety as cosmetic ingredient
Why are we talking about it?
Benzophenone-3 is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor. Also, there is an allegation that benzophenone-3 is associated with the phenomenon of bleaching of coral reefs. The facts: Benzophenone-3 has been subject of numerous assessments, in particular by French (3), Danish (2) and European (SCCS) (1) experts. Some in vitro studies have pointed towards an endocrine disrupting potential. However, an effect on hormone receptors observed in cell cultures under laboratory conditions is not equivalent to the detection of endocrine disruption in a living organism. Moreover, these studies are contradictory and the results are inconsistent. Whereas research on the endocrine disrupting potential of benzophenone-3 revealed equivocal results, these have nevertheless been taken into account for assessment of its safety in use. The safety margin thus calculated indicate that the substance can be safely used in products intended for adults and children. The ban on some sunscreen products by the State of Hawaii has highlighted a possible impact of certain UV filters, including benzophenone-3, on the health of corals in tropical areas. They are alleged of contributing to coral bleaching and to the destruction of coral reefs. However, the exposure conditions used in experimental studies are not representative of real conditions in the open sea, as the marine concentrations of UV filters are in fact much lower than those used in the laboratory. Key points to take away: The European experts have decided to re-examine the potential endocrine activity of 28 substances suspected of being endocrine disruptors. Benzophenone-3 was included in this re-evaluation. The use of cosmetic products containing benzophenone-3 is considered by the experts to be safe for health, for adults as for children. The concentrations of use are strictly regulated by European experts. In view of the health risks associated with sun exposure (photoaging, skin cancer), the use of sunscreen products and/or UV-protective clothing remains essential. Sources: (1) Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety: Opinion SCCS/1625/20 (2) Danish Centre on Endocrine Disrupters (CEHOS): Evaluation of 22 SIN List 2.0 substances according to the Danish proposal on criteria for endocrine disruptors, May 2012 (3) Agence nationale de sécurité sanitaire de l'alimentation, de l'environnement et du travail (ANSES/AFSSA-AFSSE): Avis de l'Afssaps relatif à l'utilisation de la benzophénone-3 dans les produits cosmétiques - Saisine 2009BCT0047, July 2011: https://archiveansm.integra.fr/var/ansm_site/storage/original/application/f02d29c4e59e684737e4d3878b1a3b00.pdf
Further information
For the clarification of a suspicion of a contact allergy this substance can be routinely tested in the epicutaneous test at the dermatologist.
Belongs to the following substance groups
Regulating cosmetics
Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.