UREA

Name / description

Urea

---

Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products

ANTISTATIC

Reduces electrostatic charges (eg of the hair)

BUFFERING

Controls the pH of cosmetic products

FRAGRANCE FUNCTIONAL

Functional ingredient (excipient) of perfume oils and / or flavours

HUMECTANT

Holds and retains moisture in cosmetic products

SKIN CONDITIONING

Maintains the skin in good condition

---

Origin

synthetic

---

Occurrence in cosmetics

Creams, lotions and other cosmetics

---

Background information on use in cosmetics

Urea (INCI: UREA), the diamide of the carbonic acid, is an almost odourless, crystalline substance. Urea is an endogenous substance and one of the natural humectant factors of the stratum corneum. In the human body it is an end product of the protein metabolism and is produced in the so-called urea cycle and then excreted via urine and also released in sweat and through the keratinisation process (arginine degradation). The urea molecule is hygroscopic (moisture-binding) and forms inclusion compounds with water from which water is initially released slowly. The natural moisture factor of the human stratum corneum includes 7 % urea so that it is obvious to use this natural skin substance as a humectant active ingredient in a targeted manner in cosmetic products. In clinically dry skin the urea content is approximately 50 % lower than in clinically healthy skin. In cosmetic products urea is mainly used for its moisturising properties. Since urea is able to bind water, it is mainly contained in care products such as creams for dry skin. This renders the skin smooth and supple. Depending on the concentration in which urea occurs in a product, the substance also has antimicrobial and itching relieving properties. Typical use concentrations of urea in cosmetics are, for instance, 3 % in body lotions and 5 to 10 % in creams and ointments. Fragrances or mixtures of fragrances are often referred to in the cosmetics area as "perfuming agents" or "perfume oils" or "parfum oils". On the cosmetic products they are declared with the INCI name "PARFUM". These are undiluted individual substances or their mixtures which originate from natural raw materials or can be produced (semi-) synthetically. They are starting materials for the production of perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne and other perfumed cosmetic products. The average content of fragrances amounts in perfume to 15-30 %, in eau de parfum to 10-14 %, in eau de toilette to 6-9 %, in eau de cologne to 3-5 % as well as in skin creams, shampoos, hair and deodorant sprays to approximately 0.2-1 % and approximately 1-3 in deodorant sticks. The perfume oils include essential oils, resinoids and absolutes. The sources are, amongst others, flowers, leaves and stems, fruits and fruit peels or roots of plants; woods, grasses or herbs, needles, resins and balsams. Moreover, only compounds isolated from natural products such as aldehydes, ketones, esters, alcohols etc. are used (geraniol, citronellal, citral, eugenol, menthol) as well as semi-synthetic (citronellol, geranyl acetate, jonone) and synthetic scents (eg phenylethyl alcohol and linalool) are used. Scents of animal origin such as musk and ambra are only rarely used.

---

Information on safe use

Minimum or maximum contents of urea in cosmetic products are not regulated by law. On a healthy skin for which the cosmetic care products are developed as opposed to medical products, urea can be used up to 20 %. As a rule, contents exceeding 10 % in cosmetic products are the exception and restrict themselves, for instance, on fields of application like callus control and fissure care at the heels. In very high concentrations (approximately 40 %) urea has a keratolytic effect and is used as a medicinal product, eg for the softening and removal of nails in the event of athlete’s foot.

---

Belongs to the following substance groups

---

Regulating cosmetics

Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.