ZINC OXIDE (NANO)

Name / description

Zinc Oxide (Nano)

---

Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products

UV ABSORBER

Protects the cosmetic product from damage caused by UV light

UV FILTER

Protects skin or hair from harmful UV radiation

---

Occurrence in cosmetics

Above all as UV filter pigment in sunscreens as well as in various skincare products with UV protection, eg day creams

---

Occurrence in other products

Zinc oxide (non-nano-scale) is traditionally used as white pigment (“zinc white”) in paints. Zinc oxide is used as an excipient in rubber production as well as for the production of glass and ceramic products. Zinc oxide is also used in medical creams for wound treatment.

---

Background information on use in cosmetics

Zinc oxide is a white inorganic (mineral) solid. In nature zinc oxide occurs in the form of the mineral zincite (red zinc ore). Zinc oxide is thermally stable and has only a minor water solubility. Zinc oxide is occasionally coated with other substances used in cosmetics (mostly silicone compounds). This serves essentially for the improvement of the dispersibility (mixability) in cosmetic formulations. Zinc oxide is a mineral UV-BB filter (broadband filter) which protects the skin against both UV-B and UV-A radiation and can absorb UV radiation from 280 to 400 nm. The maximum concentration amounts to 25 %. Nano zinc oxide places itself as a protecting film on the upper skin layer and scatters and absorbs the UV radiation of the sun. In this way the skin is protected against UV radiation and its harmful consequences (sunburn, DNA damage, skin ageing etc). As a result of the combination with other filter substances (soluble organic UV filters) particularly good light protection effects can be obtained. Nano-scale zinc oxide in sunscreens is invisible for the human eye and hence does not leave any whitish film on the skin which motivates consumers to make a more generous application. Nano-scale zinc oxide has significantly better UV filter properties than the white pigment. Nano zinc oxide has, moreover, an optimum skin tolerance. UV filters minimise the undesired effects of UV radiation on the skin and are, therefore, an important component of sunscreens. By protecting the skin against the dangerous sun radiation, they contribute towards preventing premature light-caused skin ageing and skin cancer. In this connection a distinction is made between soluble organic UV filters and those based on mineral and / or organic pigments. Whereas soluble organic UV filters absorb the UV radiation, transform it into heat and form an invisible protection shield in the upper skin layer, UV filters on the basis of pigments reflect, scatter and absorb the sun radiation already on the skin surface.

---

Information on safe use

In accordance with the EU Cosmetics Regulation [Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009], which applies to the entire EU market, UV filters are defined as substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to protect the skin against certain UV radiation by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV radiation. Annex VI of the Regulation defines the substances which may be used in cosmetic products as UV filters. In this so-called positive list of the UV filters maximum concentrations are prescribed for the use of these substances in cosmetic products and, if necessary, additional conditions for use are defined. Prior to their approval in Annex VI, UV filters are examined selectively for their toxicological safety and subjected to comprehensive tests. The manufacturers must prove the health safety in extensive scientific studies. Moreover, the approved filters are re-assessed, if necessary on the basis of new scientific findings and in the event of possible conspicuous findings in market observation and the list is updated accordingly.

---

Links to scientific assessments

Opinion of the SCCS (2012) on the safety as cosmetic ingredient

Addendum (2013) to the Opinion of the SCCS

---

Why are we talking about it?

Zinc oxide in the form of nanoparticles is suspected of being genotoxic (toxic by gene mutation) and carcinogenic. The facts: Zinc nanoparticles are not absorbed through the skin and therefore do not penetrate the body. The risk related to the use of zinc oxide in nano form at authorised concentrations is therefore considered to be zero. As a reminder, the authorisation of cosmetic ingredients in Europe is based on a risk analysis. To illustrate this concept, let's take the example of a lion (danger). If it is in a cage and the public is outside (no exposure to danger), the risk is zero. If a person is in the cage with the lion (major exposure to danger), the risk is very high. In the case of zinc oxide in nano form, its use on the skin is considered to be without risk because of the absence of exposure of the organism. On the other hand, however, the use of zinc oxide nanoparticles is prohibited in cosmetic products which may lead to inhalation (e.g. aerosols or loose powders). Key points to take away: As zinc oxide nanoparticles are not absorbed through the skin, their use in cosmetic products is safe at the authorised concentrations.

---

Belongs to the following substance groups

---

Regulating cosmetics

Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.