Ingredient
HYDROXYPROPYLCOCOATE PEG-8 DIMETHICONE
Substance information
"Hydroxypropyl" refers to 2-hydroxypropanol (1,2-propanediol) as alcoholic component or generally the 2-hydroxypropyl group as hydrocarbon residue. Cocoates are esterification products or salts of fatty acids from coconut oil. "PEG" refers to a PEG-(polyethylene glycol-) derivative. The number behind "PEG-" (or the first number behind "PEG/...-") refers to the average number of molecular units -CH2-CH2-O-. Ingredient on the basis of poly(di)methyl siloxane ("dimethicone").
Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products
SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
Softens and smoothens the skin
SURFACTANT - CLEANSING
Surface-active agent to clean skin, hair and / or teeth
Origin
synthetic
Background information on use in cosmetics
Polyethylene glycols (INCI: PEG-...) are poly condensation products of ethylene glycol, or polymerisation products of ethylene oxide. The number added to the name refers to the mean number of ethylene oxide units in the substance. The consistency of the PEG derivatives is increasingly solid with a growing degree of polymerisation. PEGs with a mean molar mass of up to 600 g/mol are liquid, up to 1,000 g/mol wax-like and from 4,000 g/mol solid wax-like substances. By mixing solid and liquid components, products of a creamy consistency are obtained which are used as water-free and water rinse-off bases. With growing molar mass water solubility and hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture) of the polyethylene glycols decrease. Polyethylene glycols and their derivates are preferentially used in cosmetic products since they have a broad spectrum of viscosity and solubility properties and have a very good skin tolerance. As water soluble, non-greasy substances polyethylene glycols are suitable for many cosmetic purposes. The liquid PEGs serve, eg, as glycerol substitute in facial, shaving and hair lotions, as solubilisers and solvents. Silicones, chemically more precisely poly(organo)siloxanes, is a designation for a group of synthetic polymers in which silicone atoms are connected through oxygen atoms. The volatility and viscosity are determined by the chain length. The silicones include various compounds which contain as a characteristic functional group a polyorganosiloxane. Important classes are: dimethylpolysiloxanes, phenylmethyl polysiloxanes, cyclic methylsiloxanes and siloxanes modified with alkyl groups or PEG (polyethylene glycol). Silicones are water insoluble and have a low surface tension. The low surface tension is the reason for their good spreading quality; they constitute protective films on the skin which are vapor-permeable. They have no comedogenic effect and are particularly well tolerated on skin. Because of their favourable technological and cosmetic properties they are used rather frequently in cosmetics and serve for the improvement of care properties in skin and haircare products. Surfactants are so-called detergent substances and have a major significance in cosmetics for the cleansing of the skin and hair. Surfactants are substances which, based on their molecular structure, are able to reduce the surface tension of a liquid. In this way it is possible that two actually not mixable substances, such as oil and water, can be finely mixed. Because of their properties, surfactants have manifold uses in cosmetics: they can cleanse, produce foam and act as emulsifiers and mix substances with one another. In shampoos, shower gels and soaps, surfactants are, for instance, used to wash fat and soil particles with water off from the body. Surfactants are also used in toothpaste. Here they promote during tooth cleaning the rapid and full dissolution and distribution of the paste in the mouth. The surfactants used in cosmetic products are primarily produced synthetically on the basis of vegetable raw materials. Surfactants are often used in combination to equally meet all desired requirements – like dissolution of soil and formation of foam in combination with a good skin tolerance – in the best possible manner. Through a skilled combination of a surfactant – viewed on its own – with unfavourable skin tolerance but a very good soil removal property with a very mild, skin protecting surfactant altogether a product with good cleansing properties and the same good skin tolerances is obtained.
Information on safe use
Claudia Fruijtier-Pölloth: Safety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products. In: "Toxicology" (2005), No. 214, P. 1-38. Publisher: Elsevier Ireland Ltd.
Belongs to the following substance groups
Regulating cosmetics
Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.