Ingredient
CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE
Name / description
Cetrimonium Chloride; N,N,N-Trimethyl-1-hexadecanaminiumchloride
Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products
ANTIMICROBIAL
Helps control the growth of micro-organisms (eg bacteria and fungi)
ANTISTATIC
Reduces electrostatic charges (eg of the hair)
PRESERVATIVE
Protects cosmetic products from microbial spoilage
SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING
Allows the formation of finely dispersed mixtures of oil and water (emulsions)
Origin
synthetic
Background information on use in cosmetics
Preservatives protect cosmetic products against microbial spoilage and hence make a major contribution to consumer health. Preservatives are particularly required in cosmetic formulations containing water, because microorganisms can colonise and reproduce in an aqueous (water-containing) environment. Cosmetics often contain more than one preservative substances and these preservative systems act simultaneously against different bacteria, yeasts or moulds. Each of these substances has been comprehensively tested and assessed for safety (individually and in combination). Manufacturers always use only the lowest possible effective concentration in a product so that an optimum shelf life and safe application are ensured. Emulsifiers are often used in cosmetics as excipients. They allow actually unmixable components like oil and water to be brought in a permanently stable emulsion. In this way both aqueous and oily care and active ingredients can be used in one and the same product in cosmetics. Emulsifiers are able to do that since their molecules consist of a lipophilic and a hydrophilic part. In this way they can reduce the interfacial tension which actually exists between two incompatible substances like fat and water. Emulsifiers are, more particularly, used for creams, lotions and cleansing agents. At present emulsifiers are, however, more than only excipients which keep an emulsion stable. Fatty acid esters on the basis of sugar, lecithin or glycerin monodistearate contribute, for instance, to improving the moisture balance of the skin and are, therefore, also considered as cosmetic active ingredients.
Information on safe use
In accordance with the EC Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009), which applies to the entire EU market, preservatives means substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the development of microorganisms in the cosmetic product. Annex V of the Regulation defines the substances which may be used as preservatives in cosmetic products. In this so-called positive list of preservatives, maximum concentrations are defined for the use of these substances in cosmetic products as well as the permissible uses. Preservatives are examined in respect of their toxicological safety prior to their approval in Annex V and undergo extensive tests. Manufacturers must prove the health safety in extensive scientific studies.
Why are we talking about it?
Quaternary ammoniums are accused of being irritating to the skin. The facts: Quaternary ammoniums, the best known of which are cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride and behentrimonium chloride, are indeed irritating to the skin and eyes when used pure or in high concentrations. The low concentrations of quaternary ammoniums authorised by the European regulation are not or only minimally irritating. As a cosmetic product is more than the sum of its ingredients, the art of formulation lies in the incorporation of (potentially irritating) ingredients at the right (and low) concentration and combining them well in order to improve the general tolerance of the product. Is it worth remembering that it is the tolerance of the final product that counts, not that of the individual ingredients, and that this is assessed before the product is placed on the market. Key points to take away: At the concentrations authorised in cosmetic products, quaternary ammoniums are not considered irritants. In addition, formulas are developed to obtain an optimal tolerance of the final product.
Belongs to the following substance groups
Regulating cosmetics
Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.