Ingredient
SODIUM OLIGOPEPTIDE-133 AMIDO PEG-75 AMIDO DISTEAROYL GLYCEROPHOSPHOETHANE
Substance information
"Sodium..." refers to a sodium salt. Peptides are linking products of some (oligopeptides, eg 6 = hexapeptide) or many amino acids (then referred to as polypeptides or proteins). "PEG" refers to a PEG-(polyethylene glycol-) derivative. The number behind "PEG-" (or the first number behind "PEG/...-") refers to the average number of molecular units -CH2-CH2-O-. The name component "stearoyl" means that the ingredient contains, as fatty acid component, amongst others, stearic acid (octadecanoic acid) (mostly introduced via an acylation reaction).
Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products
SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS
Maintains the skin in good condition
Origin
synthetic (Information may exclusively reflect the status at initial entry of this ingredient into the relevant INCI dictionary; technological progress may have added new manufacturing options based on substances of different origin)
Background information on use in cosmetics
Endogenous protein building blocks, so-called peptides, play a central role in the metabolism of the body. They signal to the body to activate the endogenous repair mechanism of the skin. This finding is used by cosmetics and peptides are frequently used in anti-ageing products (INCI: as word component peptides). Peptides are also used in haircare, eg in shampoos, conditioners and cures. They can penetrate into the inner hair structure (cortex) and strengthen the hair. In face care special active ingredient complexes are, for instance, used, in which peptides can be combined with different vitamins such as Vitamin B3, Provitamin B5 and Vitamin E as well as other care substances. These active ingredient complexes stimulate the slower regeneration of the mature skin, strengthen its structure and hence contribute towards visibly reducing wrinkles. Another peptide group is likewise used for the care of mature skin: polycollagen peptides. They consist of different peptides and collagen fragments which take over the behaviour of natural collagen fragments occurring in the skin which play an important role in the natural repair process of the skin. In care products this process is imitated. The result is a mitigation of lines and wrinkles. The complexion and the elasticity of the skin are improved. Solid PEG serve as consistency enhancers in lipsticks and creams as well as humectants. They are well tolerated by the skin and are not microbiologically sensitive, so that in general it is not necessary to add any preservatives. Polyethylene glycols (INCI: PEG-...) are poly condensation products of ethylene glycol, or polymerisation products of ethylene oxide. The number added to the name refers to the mean number of ethylene oxide units in the substance. The consistency of the PEG derivatives is increasingly solid with a growing degree of polymerisation. PEGs with a mean molar mass of up to 600 g/mol are liquid, up to 1,000 g/mol wax-like and from 4,000 g/mol solid wax-like substances. By mixing solid and liquid components, products of a creamy consistency are obtained which are used as water-free and water rinse-off bases. With growing molar mass water solubility and hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture) of the polyethylene glycols decrease. Polyethylene glycols and their derivates are preferentially used in cosmetic products since they have a broad spectrum of viscosity and solubility properties and have a very good skin tolerance. As water soluble, non-greasy substances polyethylene glycols are suitable for many cosmetic purposes. The liquid PEGs serve, eg, as glycerol substitute in facial, shaving and hair lotions, as solubilisers and solvents.
Information on safe use
Claudia Fruijtier-Pölloth: Safety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products. In: "Toxicology" (2005), No. 214, P. 1-38. Publisher: Elsevier Ireland Ltd.
Belongs to the following substance groups
Regulating cosmetics
Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.