ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE

Name / description

2-Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, 4-Methoxycinnamic Acid 2-Ethylhexyl Ester; EHMC; Octinoxat (INN)

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Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products

FRAGRANCE FUNCTIONAL

Functional ingredient (excipient) of perfume oils and / or flavours

LIGHT STABILIZER

Protecting the cosmetic product from deterioration effects of light

UV ABSORBER

Protects the cosmetic product from damage caused by UV light

UV FILTER

Protects skin or hair from harmful UV radiation

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Origin

synthetic

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Occurrence in cosmetics

As a UV filter in sunscreens and other cosmetics with UV protection (care products, decorative cosmetics)

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Background information on use in cosmetics

ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE (abbreviation: EHMC) is a soluble organic UV-B filter. It absorbs UV-B radiation from approximately 280 to 320 nm. The maximum concentration of EHMC is 10 %. UV filters minimise the undesired effects of UV radiation on the skin and are, therefore, an important component of sunscreens. By protecting the skin against the dangerous sun radiation, they contribute towards preventing premature light-caused skin ageing and skin cancer. In this connection a distinction is made between soluble organic UV filters and those based on mineral and / or organic pigments. Whereas soluble organic UV filters absorb the UV radiation, transform it into heat and form an invisible protection shield in the upper skin layer, UV filters on the basis of pigments reflect, scatter and absorb the sun radiation already on the skin surface. Organic UV filters absorb the energy of the ultraviolet part of the light in the range from approximately 280 to 400 nm. In this connection the energy of the absorbed photon must correspond to the energy which is necessary to elevate the electron in the molecule of the filter substance from a low to a higher orbit. When the electron falls back to its original orbit, the absorbed energy is either given off as heat or as radiation of a longer wavelength and hence rendered harmless. The organic UV filters are distinguished, amongst others, by the position of the absorption area, the photostability, the solubility and the penetration capacity. Depending on the wave range of the ultraviolet radiation which is absorbed by the UV filter, a distinction is made between UV-A, UV-B and broadband filters. Fragrances or mixtures of fragrances are often referred to in the cosmetics area as "perfuming agents" or "perfume oils" or "parfum oils". On the cosmetic products they are declared with the INCI name "PARFUM". These are undiluted individual substances or their mixtures which originate from natural raw materials or can be produced (semi-) synthetically. They are starting materials for the production of perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne and other perfumed cosmetic products. The average content of fragrances amounts in perfume to 15-30 %, in eau de parfum to 10-14 %, in eau de toilette to 6-9 %, in eau de cologne to 3-5 % as well as in skin creams, shampoos, hair and deodorant sprays to approximately 0.2-1 % and approximately 1-3 in deodorant sticks. The perfume oils include essential oils, resinoids and absolutes. The sources are, amongst others, flowers, leaves and stems, fruits and fruit peels or roots of plants; woods, grasses or herbs, needles, resins and balsams. Moreover, only compounds isolated from natural products such as aldehydes, ketones, esters, alcohols etc. are used (geraniol, citronellal, citral, eugenol, menthol) as well as semi-synthetic (citronellol, geranyl acetate, jonone) and synthetic scents (eg phenylethyl alcohol and linalool) are used. Scents of animal origin such as musk and ambra are only rarely used.

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Information on safe use

In accordance with the EU Cosmetics Regulation [Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009], which applies to the entire EU market, UV filters are defined as substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to protect the skin against certain UV radiation by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV radiation. Annex VI of the Regulation defines the substances which may be used in cosmetic products as UV filters. In this so-called positive list of the UV filters maximum concentrations are prescribed for the use of these substances in cosmetic products and, if necessary, additional conditions for use are defined. Prior to their approval in Annex VI, UV filters are examined selectively for their toxicological safety and subjected to comprehensive tests. The manufacturers must prove the health safety in extensive scientific studies. Moreover, the approved filters are re-assessed, if necessary on the basis of new scientific findings and in the event of possible conspicuous findings in market observation and the list is updated accordingly.

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Why are we talking about it?

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor and a pollutant of surface waters which endangers aquatic organisms. Also, there is an allegation that Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is associated with the phenomenon of bleaching of coral reefs. The facts: Whereas scientifically robust in vitro and in vivo studies do not indicate an endocrine disrupting potential, results from two studies appear to show a low activity on hormonal balance of estrogens and androgens (1). Results of these studies have been disproved by the scientifc community. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate has been subject of comprehensive safety assessments by European as well as national (French and Danish) experts. On the basis of its low percutaneous penetration a sufficiently high safety margin was calculated, indicating that Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate can be safely used in cosmetic products (1 and 2). The European experts have decided to re-examine the potential endocrine activity of 28 substances suspected of being endocrine disruptors. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate was included in this re-evaluation. The ban on some sunscreen products by the State of Hawaii has highlighted a possible impact of certain UV filters, including Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, on the health of corals in tropical areas. They are alleged of contributing to coral bleaching and to the destruction of coral reefs. However, valid ecological studies indicate that Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is readily biodegradable and does not persist in the environment. Key points to take away: The use of cosmetic products containing ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is considered by experts as safe for human health. In view of the health risks associated with sun exposure (photoaging, skin cancer), the use of sunscreen products and/or UV-protective clothing remains essential. All recent studies confirm that the two main factors in coral bleaching are the warming and acidification of the oceans as a result of climate change on the one hand, and discharges from deficient wastewater treatment plants on the other. Sources: (1) SCCNFP - 2001: Opinion on the Evaluation of Potentially Estrogenic effects of UV-filters https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/opinions/sccnfp_opinions_97_04/sccp_out145_en.htm (2) French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM / ex-AFSSAPS):” “Evaluation du risque lié à l’utilisation de l’octyl methoxycinnamate dans les produits cosmétiques, Saisine 2009BCT0056, avril 2012”/ Risk assessment of the use of octyl methoxycinnamate in cosmetic products, Referral 2009BCT0056, April 2012: https://archiveansm.integra.fr/var/ansm_site/storage/original/application/35a1721e1f93ff65d925822a9582a3d2.pdf (3) Cosmetic Products Regulation EC No. 1223/2009; Annex VI

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Further information

For the clarification of a suspicion of a contact allergy this substance can be routinely tested in the epicutaneous test at the dermatologist.

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Belongs to the following substance groups

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Regulating cosmetics

Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.