Ingredient

HEMA

Name / description

2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate; Methacrylic Acid, 2-Hydroxyethyl Ester

Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products

NAIL SCULPTING

Builds up artificial fingernails

Occurrence in cosmetics

Nail products

Occurrence in other products

Dental fillings, printing plate production

Background information on use in cosmetics

HEMA is used for the production of UV light hardened acrylic resins (artificial fingernails).

Links to scientific assessments

Opinion of the SCCS (2018) on the safety of HEMA and di-HEMA trimethyl hexyl dicarbamate

Why are we talking about it?

Acrylates and methacrylates are suspected of being irritants and inducing/eliciting allergies (sensitisation). The facts: Exposure of consumers to acrylates and methacrylates has steadily increased, due to their increasing use in artificial nails and the appeal of semi-permanent nail polishes. Acrylates and methacrylates are neither sensitising nor irritating if used correctly (1). Indeed, they do not penetrate the nail plate and should not come into contact with the skin around the nail. Studies show that it is the subunits of acrylates and methacrylates (monomers) that can cause allergies and irritations, as well as respiratory and ENT problems in nail care professionals. These monomers aggregate to form the resin of the artificial nail or varnish (polymerisation). The final polymerised resin is neither sensitising nor irritating. If the polymerisation is not complete, residual monomers may persist. It is therefore essential to meticulously follow the instructions for use of the products (in particular the polymerisation time) and to check their quality (2). Key points to take away: Acrylate and methacrylate monomers may cause allergic or asthmatic symptoms or breathing difficulties when inhaled. Nail care professionals, who have the highest exposure to acrylates and methacrylates, should take every precaution to minimise their exposure to acrylate and methacrylate monomers. These precautions include wearing protective gloves as well as ensuring adequate workplace ventilation and exhaust systems. In order to limit exposure to acrylates and methacrylates, consumers should choose professionals who are competent and careful in the way they apply the products. In case of skin lesions around the nail, it is recommended to postpone the application of artificial nails or semi-permanent varnish. Sources: (1) Opinion of the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety SCCS/1592/17: https://ec.europa.eu/health/sites/health/files/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_214.pdf (2) French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health & Safety (ANSES/ ex-AFSSA-AFSSET): Risk Assessment for professionals exposed to products used in nail care and decoration, 2017: https://www.anses.fr/fr/system/files/CONSO2014SA0148Ra.pdf; https://www.anses.fr/en/content/professionals-working-nail-care-and-decoration-exposure-multiple-chemical-substances

Further information

For the clarification of a suspicion of a contact allergy this substance can be routinely tested in the epicutaneous test at the dermatologist.

Regulating cosmetics

Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.

Understanding your cosmetics

How are cosmetics kept safe in Europe?

Strict laws make sure that cosmetics and personal care products sold in the European Union are safe for people to use. Companies, national and European regulatory authorities share the responsibility of keeping cosmetic products safe.

What should I know about endocrine disruptors?

Some ingredients used in cosmetic products have been claimed to be ‘endocrine disruptors’ because they have the potential to mimic some of the properties of our hormones. Just because something has the potential to mimic a hormone does not mean it will disrupt our endocrine system. Many substances, including natural ones, mimic hormones but very few, and these are mostly potent medicines, have ever been shown to cause disruption of the endocrine system. The rigorous product safety assessments by qualified, scientific experts that companies are legally obliged to carry out cover all potential risks, including potential endocrine disruption.

Are cosmetics tested on animals? No!

In the European Union, testing cosmetics on animals has been fully banned since 2013. Over the last 30 years, long before a ban was in place, the cosmetics and personal care industry has invested in research and development to pioneer alternatives to animal testing tools to assess the safety of cosmetics ingredients and products.

What about allergens in cosmetics?

Many substances, natural or man-made, have the potential to cause an allergic reaction. An allergic reaction occurs when a person’s immune system reacts to substances that are harmless to most people. A substance that causes an allergic reaction is called an allergen. Cosmetics and personal care products may contain ingredients that can be allergenic for some people. This does not mean that the product is not safe for others to use.

Database

Cosmetics matter to people and play an important role in our everyday life. On average European consumers use over seven different cosmetics daily. You too? It’s only natural that you want to know more about the ingredients in those products.

In the digital world we live in, there’s a deluge of information on cosmetics. However, it can be difficult to know which sources are reliable. COSMILE Europe is a European cosmetic ingredient database that offers reliable, verified and scientifically supported information on almost 30,000 ingredients used in cosmetics.

This database will help you understand why certain ingredients are in your cosmetic products; which properties they have and much more. The database is currently available in fourteen languages with more to come.

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