AMP-ISOSTEAROYL HYDROLYZED KERATIN

Substance information

"AMP" refers to a salt of aminomethyl propanol (2-amino-2-methylpropanol). The name component "isostearoyl" means that the ingredient contains, as fatty acid component, amongst others, isostearic acid (isooctadecanoic acid) (mostly introduced via an acylation reaction). "Hydrolyzed" means: hydrolysed or a hydrolysate (product of the separation of a chemical compound by reaction with water, often by means of enzymes). Ingredient on the basis of keratin or hydrolysed keratin.

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Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products

CLEANSING

Cleans skin, hair or teeth

HAIR CONDITIONING

Leaves the hair easy to comb, supple, soft and shiny and / or imparts volume

SKIN CONDITIONING

Maintains the skin in good condition

SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

Surface-active agent to clean skin, hair and / or teeth

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Origin

animal/synthetic/plant

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Background information on use in cosmetics

Keratins are water-insoluble proteins which constitute the main component of skin, hair and nails. They consist of amino acid chains which are interconnected in the form of fibres in such a way that they ensure a high degree of stability. Hair and nails become elastic and stress-resistant. In cosmetic products keratins (INCI name component: KERATIN) may also be applied externally to the skin and the hair as care. As ingredient in hair cosmetic products, they help, for instance, to strengthen the hair structure and rebuild it. With their support hair becomes easier to comb, supple, soft and glossy. Moreover, they provide the hair with more volume. In cosmetic haircare products, keratins preserve the moisture of the skin and ensure a smooth and soft skin surface. Surfactants are so-called detergent substances and have a major significance in cosmetics for the cleansing of the skin and hair. Surfactants are substances which, based on their molecular structure, are able to reduce the surface tension of a liquid. In this way it is possible that two actually not mixable substances, such as oil and water, can be finely mixed. Because of their properties, surfactants have manifold uses in cosmetics: they can cleanse, produce foam and act as emulsifiers and mix substances with one another. In shampoos, shower gels and soaps, surfactants are, for instance, used to wash fat and soil particles with water off from the body. Surfactants are also used in toothpaste. Here they promote during tooth cleaning the rapid and full dissolution and distribution of the paste in the mouth. The surfactants used in cosmetic products are primarily produced synthetically on the basis of vegetable raw materials. Surfactants are often used in combination to equally meet all desired requirements – like dissolution of soil and formation of foam in combination with a good skin tolerance – in the best possible manner. Through a skilled combination of a surfactant – viewed on its own – with unfavourable skin tolerance but a very good soil removal property with a very mild, skin protecting surfactant altogether a product with good cleansing properties and the same good skin tolerances is obtained.

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Information on safe use

This substance is expressly approved and / or subject to a restriction as a result of an entry in Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation after an assessment by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety of the EU Commission (SCCS). Restrictions can relate eg to purity criteria, a maximum concentration or the restriction to certain product categories. Subject to the conditions possibly imposed in Annex III, the use of this substance in cosmetic products is safe.

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Why are we talking about it?

Annex III of the European Cosmetic Products Regulation sets maximum limits for the level of nitrosamines in mono- and trialkylamines and -alkanolamines and in fatty acid dialkylamines and dialkanolamides. Formation of relevant nitrosamines can occur by the reaction of secondary amino compounds contained as impurities in such ingredients with nitrosating agents (with nitrites; nitrosation reaction). Nitrosamines, which are potentially carcinogenic components, may therefore appear as unavoidable traces in the cosmetic product after its manufacture. The facts: There is a global strategy against the formation of nitrosamines, relying on cosmetic regulations and the recommendations of professional bodies (1 and 2). This strategy covers the raw materials (whose purity is controlled to limit impurities), the manufacturing process, storage and the finished product. Choosing ingredients with low potential for nitrosation is also critical (2). In order to guarantee the effectiveness of these measures, nitrosamines levels are measured in the raw materials and in the finished product. To limit the formation of nitrosamines, it is also possible to add ingredients to the formula which will prevent this reaction. Cosmetic formulation is a rigorous science with many constraints, which the issue of nitrosamine management perfectly illustrates. Key points to take away: The formation of nitrosamines is a very well regulated issue in the manufacture of cosmetic products, from raw materials to finished products. All precautions are taken to avoid their formation. Sources: (1) Opinion of the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS): SCCS/1458/11 - Opinion on Nitrosamines and Secondary Amines in Cosmetic Products: https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_090.pdf (2) COSMETICS EUROPE: Technical guidance document on minimising and determining nitrosamines in cosmetics, 2009: https://cosmeticseurope.eu/download/TjBjaHR5ekxhQ0Vxbkc1eEtKU2NTdz09

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Belongs to the following substance groups

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Regulating cosmetics

Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.