Ingredient
PHENOXYETHANOL
Name / description
Phenoxyethanol; 2-Phenoxyethanol
Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products
ANTIMICROBIAL
Helps control the growth of micro-organisms (eg bacteria and fungi)
PRESERVATIVE
Protects cosmetic products from microbial spoilage
Origin
synthetic
Occurrence in cosmetics
Deodorants, care and cleansing agents for skin and hair, aftershave lotions, sunscreens, makeup
Occurrence in other products
Wet wipes, vaccines, injection solutions, medical ointments, technical cooling lubricants
Background information on use in cosmetics
Phenoxyethanol is a clear, pleasantly smelling liquid which is primarily used as a preservative, but can also serve as a fragrance. As a preservative (maximum use concentration 1 %) it acts mainly against bacteria. Phenoxy ethanol is frequently used in combination with parabens. The optimum effect of phenoxy ethanol is in the pH range from 4 to 5. Preservatives protect cosmetic products against microbial spoilage and hence make a major contribution to consumer health. Preservatives are particularly required in cosmetic formulations containing water, because microorganisms can colonise and reproduce in an aqueous (water-containing) environment. Cosmetics often contain more than one preservative substances and these preservative systems act simultaneously against different bacteria, yeasts or moulds. Each of these substances has been comprehensively tested and assessed for safety (individually and in combination). Manufacturers always use only the lowest possible effective concentration in a product so that an optimum shelf life and safe application are ensured.
Information on safe use
Opinion of the SCCS (2016) on the safety of phenoxyethanol In accordance with the EC Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009), which applies to the entire EU market, preservatives means substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the development of microorganisms in the cosmetic product. Annex V of the Regulation defines the substances which may be used as preservatives in cosmetic products. In this so-called positive list of preservatives, maximum concentrations are defined for the use of these substances in cosmetic products as well as the permissible uses. Preservatives are examined in respect of their toxicological safety prior to their approval in Annex V and undergo extensive tests. Manufacturers must prove the health safety in extensive scientific studies.
Why are we talking about it?
Some people do not tolerate phenoxyethanol well and say it is irritating to the skin. It is also accused of triggering allergic reactions (eczema, urticaria). Some studies have suggested a toxic effect on the blood and the liver. The facts: Studied for many years, phenoxyethanol has never been classified as a skin sensitizer or irritant, especially at the concentrations used in cosmetics (1 and 2). There is therefore no reason for it to irritate the skin or trigger allergic reactions. However, like any active molecule, it may not be well tolerated by certain skins. Phenoxyethanol may be irritating to the eyes. Due to the questions raised by the ANSM (3), the SCCS re-evaluated phenoxyethanol in 2016 and concluded it is safe regardless of age and area of application. The liver and blood toxicity observed in rabbits is not transposable to humans (1, 4). The amount of cosmetic product to be applied in order to exceed the dose at which there may be effects on the body, on the blood (no-effect dose or NOAEL) can be calculated. This calculation also takes into account the type of product (rinse-off or not) and the skin absorption rate. In order to exceed the NOAEL, a woman weighing 57 kg (average weight) would have to apply 47 jars of face cream per day, every day. Numerous studies on phenoxyethanol have ruled out any endocrine disruption mechanism, as no hormonal effect has been demonstrated (1, 2 and 6). Key points to take away: Due to its effectiveness and versatility, phenoxyethanol is present in many cosmetic products. Limited to a maximum concentration of 1 % in a formula (2 and 5), it is in fact often used in lower doses in products. Phenoxyethanol is recognised as a safe ingredient for use in cosmetic products for adults and children (1). Sources: (1) European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety: Opinion on phenoxyethanol, SCCS/1575/16 (October 2016): https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_195.pdf (2) Cosmetic Ingredient Review: Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Phenoxyethanol (1990), re-evaluated in 2011 (3) French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM): Risk assessment report (May 2012, updated in May 2018) (4) Since 2009, animal testing has been banned in Europe. Companies cannot use data from animal testing after 2013 to establish the safety assessments required for the marketing of a cosmetic product in the European Union. Data which have been collected before the entry into force of this ban or generated under REACh for other sectors (e.g. biocides) can be used to meet regulatory requirements (5) Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009; Annex V (6) Danish Environment Protection Agency: Survey and health and environmental assessment of preservatives in cosmetic products, N°138, 2015: https://www2.mst.dk/Udgiv/publications/2015/05/978-87-93352-19-3.pdf
Further information
For the clarification of a suspicion of a contact allergy this substance can be routinely tested in the epicutaneous test at the dermatologist.
Belongs to the following substance groups
Regulating cosmetics
Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.