SALICYLIC ACID

Name / description

Salicylic Acid, o-Hydroxybenzoic Acid

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Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC

Prevents seborrhea and / or seborrheic dermatitis or relieves their symptoms; and / or acts against dandruff

FRAGRANCE

Enhances the smell of a product and / or perfumes the skin

HAIR CONDITIONING

Leaves the hair easy to comb, supple, soft and shiny and / or imparts volume

KERATOLYTIC

Helps to remove the layers of dead skin cells from the skin surface

PRESERVATIVE

Protects cosmetic products from microbial spoilage

SKIN CONDITIONING

Maintains the skin in good condition

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Origin

plant/synthetic

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Occurrence in cosmetics

As a preservative in various cosmetic products, as an active ingredient in cosmetic peelings or anti-dandruff shampoos, etc

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Occurrence in other products

Medicinal products

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Background information on use in cosmetics

In chemical terms salicylic acid is part of the hydroxycarboxylic acids since it contains a carboxy and a hydroxy group. In the form of its methyl ester it occurs in essential oils and as a phytohormone in various plants, where it serves as plant protection in leaves, flowers and roots. Salicylic acid is approved as a preservative of up to 0.5 % in cosmetic products, but not in products for children below the age of 3. In a cosmetic peeling the salicylic acid breaks down the cell cement of the stratum corneum. This leads to a peeling off of loose dead skin cells and the opening of blocked pores and hence to a more even complexion. Preservatives protect cosmetic products against microbial spoilage and hence make a major contribution to consumer health. Preservatives are particularly required in cosmetic formulations containing water, because microorganisms can colonise and reproduce in an aqueous (water-containing) environment. Cosmetics often contain more than one preservative substances and these preservative systems act simultaneously against different bacteria, yeasts or moulds. Each of these substances has been comprehensively tested and assessed for safety (individually and in combination). Manufacturers always use only the lowest possible effective concentration in a product so that an optimum shelf life and safe application are ensured. Fragrances or mixtures of fragrances are often referred to in the cosmetics area as "perfuming agents" or "perfume oils" or "parfum oils". On the cosmetic products they are declared with the INCI name "PARFUM". These are undiluted individual substances or their mixtures which originate from natural raw materials or can be produced (semi-) synthetically. They are starting materials for the production of perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne and other perfumed cosmetic products. The average content of fragrances amounts in perfume to 15-30 %, in eau de parfum to 10-14 %, in eau de toilette to 6-9 %, in eau de cologne to 3-5 % as well as in skin creams, shampoos, hair and deodorant sprays to approximately 0.2-1 % and approximately 1-3 in deodorant sticks. The perfume oils include essential oils, resinoids and absolutes. The sources are, amongst others, flowers, leaves and stems, fruits and fruit peels or roots of plants; woods, grasses or herbs, needles, resins and balsams. Moreover, only compounds isolated from natural products such as aldehydes, ketones, esters, alcohols etc. are used (geraniol, citronellal, citral, eugenol, menthol) as well as semi-synthetic (citronellol, geranyl acetate, jonone) and synthetic scents (eg phenylethyl alcohol and linalool) are used. Scents of animal origin such as musk and ambra are only rarely used.

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Information on safe use

This substance is expressly approved and / or subject to a restriction as a result of an entry in Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation after an assessment by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety of the EU Commission (SCCS). Restrictions can relate eg to purity criteria, a maximum concentration or the restriction to certain product categories. Subject to the conditions possibly imposed in Annex III, the use of this substance in cosmetic products is safe. In accordance with the EC Cosmetics Regulation (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009), which applies to the entire EU market, preservatives means substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the development of microorganisms in the cosmetic product. Annex V of the Regulation defines the substances which may be used as preservatives in cosmetic products. In this so-called positive list of preservatives, maximum concentrations are defined for the use of these substances in cosmetic products as well as the permissible uses. Preservatives are examined in respect of their toxicological safety prior to their approval in Annex V and undergo extensive tests. Manufacturers must prove the health safety in extensive scientific studies.

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Links to scientific assessments

Opinion of the SCCS (2018) on the safety of salicylic acid

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Why are we talking about it?

Salicylic acid is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor. The facts: There is little data on the endocrine disrupting potential of salicylic acid. Indeed, the doubts surrounding it arose from studies carried out on molecules from the same family (salicylates or even acetylsalicylic acid, i.e. aspirin). The European Commission has therefore launched a call for data in order to clarify this question. The safety of salicylic acid in cosmetic products has been assessed by European (1, 2) and American (3) experts. Salicylic acid is recognised as safe at the concentrations authorised in cosmetics (4). Endocrine disruption is a recent concept, which explains why there are more in vitro data (referring to studies or manipulations carried out in an artificial laboratory environment, for instance in a test tube), which are quicker and easier to produce, than in vivo data (5) (referring to studies or manipulations carried out on living organisms). It is common for in vivo data to contradict in vitro data. A good example is soya, which contains molecules which mimic oestrogens but do not cause any disease in humans. Key points to take away: The safe use of salicylic acid at the concentrations authorised in cosmetic products has been confirmed by European experts (1). In order to guarantee a high level of consumer safety, the concentrations of use of salicylic acid are highly regulated and products containing this ingredient must not be used on children under the age of three; nor will you find it in oral hygiene products. Sources: (1) Opinion of the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), December 2018: Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, opinion on salicylic acid, SCCS/1601/18: https://ec.europa.eu/health/sites/health/files/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_223.pdf (2) French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health & Safety (ANSES / ex-AFSSA-AFSSET): “Avis relatif à l'évaluation des substances inscrites au programme de travail 2015 de l'Agence dans le cadre de la Stratégie nationale sur les perturbateurs endocriniens”/ Opinion on the assessment of substances included in the Agency's 2015 work programme under the National Strategy on Endocrine Disruptors (April 2016)): https://www.anses.fr/fr/system/files/REACH2016RE0001.pdf (3) Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR): Amended Safety Assessment of Salicylic Acid and Salicylates as Used in Cosmetics, 2019: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/salicy042019FAR.pdf (4) Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009; Annex III / Regulation 2021/850 (5) Danish centre on endocrine disrupters: List of Endocrine Disrupting Chemicals, 2018: http://cend.dk/files/DK_ED-list-final_2018.pdf

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Belongs to the following substance groups

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Regulating cosmetics

Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.