COCHINEAL

Name / description

Cochineal; 2-Carboxy-3,5,6,8-tetrahydroxy-1-methyl-9,10-dioxoanthracen-7-yl-beta-D-glucopyranoside; Carmine Red, Crimson Lake, Carmine Lake, Natural Red 4, CI 75470, Food colorant: E 120

---

Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products

COLORANT

Colours cosmetic products, skin, nails and / or hair

HAIR DYEING

Colours the hair

---

Occurrence in other products

Food colorant: E 120

---

Background information on use in cosmetics

Colourants ensure an appealing appearance of the cosmetic product and serve for the embellishment of the skin and hair. The most frequently used colourants are synthetic; only a few natural substances are available. For colourants, the applicable INCI names are in most cases the so-called Colour Index Numbers, the "CI Numbers". Cosmetic hair dyes are subdivided according to different operating principles. There are temporary dyes (tints), semi-permanent dyes (semi-permanent hair colours) and permanent dyes (oxidation dyes or bleaches). Temporary dyes are characterised by the use of direct dyes (eg cationic dyes such as Basic Red 56 or Acid Blue 62). There is no chemical reaction with other components; the dyes adhere to the hair surface and last for one to two hair washes. For temporary hair dyes, azo, triphenylmethane or anthraquinone dyes are used. The temporary dyes are sold as aqueous alcoholic solutions. In combination with hairspray, it is also possible to apply very small golden or silver gloss pigments or even fluorescent substances to the hair. Semi-permanent dyes (tints) also use direct dyes (eg nitro dyes such as HC Blue 2 or HC Yellow 10). The hair is coloured circularly, which ensures that it lasts for eight to 10 hair washes. Nitro dyes diffuse because of their low molecular size into the hair but are washable. Other dyes which are used include nitrophenyl diamines, azo and quinonimine dyes in combination with organic solubilizers such as glycol ether or polypropylene. In the event of permanent dyes (oxidative hair dyes), colourless precursors, also referred to as developers and couplers, are first used. The actual dyes are formed through a chemical reaction. The entire hair is dyed and the colour is not washable.

---

Information on safe use

According to the EC Cosmetics Regulation [Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009], which applies to the entire EU market, colourants are defined as substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to colour the cosmetic product, the body as a whole or certain parts thereof, by absorption or reflection of physical light. Annex IV of the Regulation defines the substances which may be used as colourants in cosmetic products. In this positive list of colourants maximum concentrations are defined in part for the use of these substances in cosmetic products as well as the permitted areas of application. Hair colourants are currently still separately regulated in the EC Cosmetics legislation. In future it is planned to include them also into Annex IV. Colourants are examined prior to their authorisation in Annex IV selectively for their toxicological safety and subjected to extensive tests. The manufacturers must prove the health safety in extensive scientific studies. Moreover, the approved colorants are reassessed and the list is updated accordingly in line with new scientific findings and in the event of suspected adverse events evident from market surveillance. Hair colourants are at present amongst the most thoroughly examined cosmetic products on the EU market. Since 2003 the European Commission has pursued a global strategy for the safety assessment of hair colourants and hair dyes in Europe. More than 100 individual hair colourants were considered as safe by the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) of the EU Commission after a comprehensive assessment and are allowed for use in Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation. https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/docs/citizens_hairdyes_en.pdf

---

Belongs to the following substance groups

---

Regulating cosmetics

Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.