Ingredient

CERA MICROCRISTALLINA

Name / description

Microcrystalline Wax; Hydrocarbon Waxes, Petroleum Wax

Function(s) of this ingredient in cosmetic products

BINDING

Ensures the cohesion of powdered products

EMULSION STABILISING

Supports emulsion formation and improves product stability

OPACIFYING

Reduces transparency and translucency by clouding the product

VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Increases or decreases the viscosity of cosmetic products

Origin

mineral/synthetic

Occurrence in cosmetics

Consistency enhancer for compact creams, balms, stick products, hair wax etc

Background information on use in cosmetics

Cera Microcristallina is a mineral wax. The term wax is in many cases used as a technological collective term for a series of chemically very different substances which are generally kneadable at ambient temperature. In chemical terms waxes are esters from a long-chain monohydric alcohol (fatty alcohol) with a fatty acid. The German Society for Fat Science defines waxes according to their physical properties: at 20 °C kneadable, solid to brittly hard, rough to finely crystalline, melt at over 40 °C, are then very thin and not ropey. Mineral waxes are a mixture of higher, solid paraffin hydrocarbons and occur in an amorphous to microcrystalline form. Cera microcristallina refer to a purified, solid paraffin with crystalline structures. Mineral waxes have film-forming as well as hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties in cosmetic products and promote gloss formation on the skin (eg in lipsticks). They also serve as consistency enhancer in creams and protect the skin against moisture loss. The paraffins used in cosmetics are highly purified, very well tolerated and do not cause any skin irritations.

Information on safe use

Assessment of the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) on the safety of mineral oils in cosmetics

Why are we talking about it?

Mineral oils are accused of forming an impermeable film on the surface of the skin. Consumer associations have raised the question of the potential presence of undesirable compounds in mineral oils. The facts: Mineral oils are known in cosmetics as occlusive. This does not mean that they suffocate the skin (which does not breathe), but that the film they form on the skin's surface limits insensible water loss, which puts them in the category of moisturisers. They do not clog pores or cause imperfections. The term mineral oil covers a wide range of ingredients, whose characteristics (structure, viscosity etc.) vary, but which are all composed of hydrocarbons known as “saturated”. Mineral oils used in cosmetics are refined to a high, pharmaceutical grade of purity (1). Mineral oils used in lip products are safe enough to be ingested (2). Mineral oils do not penetrate the skin barrier; they are moreover inert and perfectly tolerated, which makes them a good ally to fragilized skin. Key points to take away: Mineral oils are very well known cosmetic ingredients and are very safe to use (1), both on the skin and on the lips. The purity criteria required in cosmetics limit the presence of undesirable compounds to a minimum, without any health risk (2). The fact that they do not penetrate the skin barrier as well as their occlusive nature are assets in the care of the most fragile skins. They are even used in medical environments in the management of damaged skin (burns, wounds). Sources: (1) Bundesinstitut für Risikobewertung (BFR): Highly refined mineral oils in cosmetics: Health risks are not to be expected according to current knowledge, 2018: https://mobil.bfr.bund.de/cm/349/highly-refined-mineral-oils-in-cosmetics-health-risks-are-not-to-be-expected-according-to-current-knowledge.pdf (2) COSMETICS EUROPE: Mineral hydrocarbons in cosmetic lip care products, 2018: https://cosmeticseurope.eu/download/N08vNnB0TUhMbWpwQmlqVk9UZzdwZz09

Further information

Belongs to the following substance groups

Binders

Opacifiers / Pearlescent substances

Stabilisers

Thickening agents / consistency regulators

Waxes

Regulating cosmetics

Cosmetics Ingredients are subject to regulation. Please note, different regulations may apply to cosmetic ingredients outside the EU.

Understanding your cosmetics

How are cosmetics kept safe in Europe?

Strict laws make sure that cosmetics and personal care products sold in the European Union are safe for people to use. Companies, national and European regulatory authorities share the responsibility of keeping cosmetic products safe.

What should I know about endocrine disruptors?

Some ingredients used in cosmetic products have been claimed to be ‘endocrine disruptors’ because they have the potential to mimic some of the properties of our hormones. Just because something has the potential to mimic a hormone does not mean it will disrupt our endocrine system. Many substances, including natural ones, mimic hormones but very few, and these are mostly potent medicines, have ever been shown to cause disruption of the endocrine system. The rigorous product safety assessments by qualified, scientific experts that companies are legally obliged to carry out cover all potential risks, including potential endocrine disruption.

Are cosmetics tested on animals? No!

In the European Union, testing cosmetics on animals has been fully banned since 2013. Over the last 30 years, long before a ban was in place, the cosmetics and personal care industry has invested in research and development to pioneer alternatives to animal testing tools to assess the safety of cosmetics ingredients and products.

What about allergens in cosmetics?

Many substances, natural or man-made, have the potential to cause an allergic reaction. An allergic reaction occurs when a person’s immune system reacts to substances that are harmless to most people. A substance that causes an allergic reaction is called an allergen. Cosmetics and personal care products may contain ingredients that can be allergenic for some people. This does not mean that the product is not safe for others to use.

Database

Cosmetics matter to people and play an important role in our everyday life. On average European consumers use over seven different cosmetics daily. You too? It’s only natural that you want to know more about the ingredients in those products.

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